Thursday, June 14, 2007

¿Dónde estamos?

I will get some pictures of the town and of the house up soon, but today I got addicted to playing with Google Earth while down at PACEMD - Tony showed us how to take the bus from the plaza to the Tuesday market using the program so I had to find some familiar sites as soon as I got a chance....

This first image is of the place we are staying up the hill in Resedencial las Fuentes in Colonia Atascadero - about 10 minutes from the PACEMD site.
Hopefully you can actually see the tiny little yellow thumbtacks marking the specified locations.



It would be an OK walk down the hill to the PACEMD site, but walking up would be a pretty tough workout. Fortunately, taxis are plentiful here and the ride is only $2-3 each way. This is the general location and route from Residencial las Fuentes to PACEMD - which is right in the middle of town next to the main square.



This is a 3D-rendered picture showing the center of town with and demonstrating the surrounding hills/mountains.



This is a nice shot showing the bulk of the central area of town.....In the bottom right hand corner - the big circle - is the Plaza de Toros (the bullfighting ring) - PACEMD is marked again by a yellow thumbtack....





Again, the PACEMD site is marked by a barely visible thumbtack....





Last Sunday, we traveled by bus from Mexico City to San Miguel de Allende - about a 3.5 hour ride...




San Miguel de Allende is located in the central area of the country, north of Mexico City.





Google earth is ridiculously cool....

Saturday, June 09, 2007

Mexico Day 2: Mexico City

Day #2 started early with a ride on the metro to Colonia San Angel -- a nice suburb area with a college town feel - complete with Starbucks, internet cafes, and other trendy shops.



The metro (subway) in Mexico City is considered to be one of the best in the world and is very modern, safe and clean - although very very crowded at almost all times of the day. Oh, and it's only forty cents per person.

It was a long ride out to San Angel and a decent walk awaited us to our destination...El Mercado de Sabado at the Plaza de San Jacinto. Our goal was to find a craft market to get a bag para Kryste and look around at the hand made fabrics and other items that sell for pennies on what you would pay for manufactured goods in the U.S. -- but with 5Xs the amount of detail.

Anyway, the market wasn't quite what we had in mind and was actually more similar to the annual Ann Arbor Art fair held every summer -- mostly Europeans selling paintings and locals selling jewelry and woodwork.

Fortunately though, we were also close to Colonia Coyoacan - the location of Casa la Trotsky. Let me tell you something - nothing is more surreal then walking around an upper middle class neighborhood in Mexico City to find the home of an exiled revolutionary founder of the Russian Red Army!





Trotsky, of course, was exiled for his opposition to Stalin. When Trotsky first arrived in Mexico City, he lived briefly at the home of Diego Rivera before moving a few blocks over to the house of Frido Kahlo. Later he again moved to his own home which you can now visit and, unfortunately for Trotsky, is also where an assassin sponsored by Stalin eventually caught up to the exiled leader, giving him the fate of most revolutionaries - a violent death at the hands of an enemy (this one of course was particularly violent as Trotsky's head was smashed by a pick axe).



This was despite the two guard houses and gun towers on the Trotsky property and the added security that was put in place after Trotsky survived an earlier attempt on his life.

Amazingly, the study where this occurred is there relatively undisturbed and the museum at the home is run by a board of directors that includes Trotksy's grandson. In addition, his ashes are buried at the foot of a red flag with a hammer and sickle monument.












By the way, if you ever plan on walking from San Angel to Coyoacan, you should know two things -
1. it is indeed a very nice walk
2. it is much further than it appears on the map and a cab ride would only cost you $2 (20 pesos).

Another "by the way" -- the only reason Trotsky's assassin survived is because Trotsky himself ordered his bodyguards not to shoot the man when they burst through the door during the ensuing struggle ("Do not kill this man. He has a story to tell").


After leaving Trotsky's house complete with the stylish gun towers and garden, we still needed to find the market we were looking for -- I had a picture of the place in my head and - while street vendors and markets are ubiquitous with Mexico City - we had simply not found the one particular market I was thinking of -- so we hailed a cab, tried to ask about the market location and were taken to a nearby market within Coyoacan which was neat to see - but still the wrong one.

However, this does remind me of our other observations regarding style/fashion in Mexico City -- 1. Jack from the Nightmare before Christmas is HUGE here -- most of the vendors sell some type of traditional craft with the image of the Pumpkin King featured prominently -- why? because he is a big skeleton of course, and if you know anything about this place, you know that this population is obsessed with death and skeleton imagery. OK, fashion/style observation #2 -- pseduo-punk/goth style is ridiculously popular here -- it's like the U.S. in 1994. Kids with spiky hair and bracelets/piercings are everywhere - even fairly conservative people have little signs of this culture.

What we called "mini Mexico 'hot topics'" are all over the streets so you don't have to go without a studded bracelet or early 90s grunge rock T-shirt. Oh, and if you want to take HepC home with you as a souvenir, opportunities abound at the numerous street body piercing/tattoo shops.







After the Coyoacan Market, we hit the reset button, headed back for the hotel and did a little research to find the now much sought after holy grail of markets with an unknown name and location.

We stopped for lunch at a rooftop terrace restaurant overlooking the square when we witnessed one of the more amusing events of the trip thus far - a large group of naked or near naked bicyclists - complete with police escort - circling the square in protest of "manufacturo". Try doing that in front of the White House...






Poking through some travel books and using the free, but slow, wireless Internet connection in the hotel, I finally found a market that, from the description, sounded absolutely correct. Of course, we stepped out into a torrential downpour when we decided to go to el mercado and got soaked hauling ass through the Zocalo to the nearest subway stop.

At least it was worth it - as soon as we stepped out of the belles Artes stop, I had a good feeling we were in the right place. After getting lost a few times wandering the streets, and bumping into another group of lost tourists, we finally made it to the place we were searching for -- although we had been in a slight hurry because the books said something about the market closing at 5 (and it was getting past 4:30), we quickly realized that, like most things here, the time was more of an idea then a reality - maybe this was the time that the first vendor packed up but it certainly wasn't the end of the day -- that wouldn't be for hours to come at this market.

If you visit, definitely find this place -- it's near the Almeda and is called Mercado de Artesanes. It's a nice mix of touristy and local with a lot of high quality but affordable stuff...

And yes, we did find a hand woven bag for Kryste for 25 pesos....


We were pretty exhausted after the market. Fortunately, I stumbled into a ticket agent for the bus so I was able to buy my bus tickets to San Miguel that night in the subway station. More on the Mexico bus system later - but I will just say for now, it is not what you might expect - their buses are like planes - with a drink/food service, big comfy seats, A/C, and cheesy American movies playing on the many TVs.

Anyway, the bus trip the next morning was an early one, so we stopped by a restaurant whose advertised gimmick is "prehispanic food" including grasshoppers and ants.

Unfortunately, Kryst chickened out on the grasshoppers so I had to settle for tacos. The only real amusement at this place was that a travel channel documentary was being filmed at the table next to us - so the dishes were being presented one at a time to the camera crew while the waiters tried to keep a straight face and the chef snuck peaks at his food from a Little balcony in the adjacent rooms.

Anyway, day 2 was obviously busy and things didn't settle down too much on Day 3 - a travel day where we got our fist look and experience in San Miguel de Allende - the place where we will be for the next 4 weeks.

Mas tarde

Mexico Day 1: Mexico City

Today is actually our fourth day in Mexico but this is the first day where things calmed down and moved slow enough for me to get a chance to sort through some photos and write down a few thoughts regarding the trip so far.

On Friday we left Tampa for Mexico and arrived in Mexico City around 11:30am (the entire country is on the U.S. version of central time) - plenty of time for a full day. And believe me, I've spent a couple of nights trying to find the time to post about this first day, attesting to just how busy things were during that time.

Anyway, here are some of the better photos from the trip thus far with a little bit of narration. Of course, if you are really bored, you can find all the pictures (including photos of me sitting, me driving, me moving luggage around...you know the really exciting stuff) over at my picasa web album. 4 days down, 28 more to go!

1. Flew from Tampa to Houston and then on to Mexico City

(for more exciting photos like this, head to the photo album, otherwise stick with the blog!)

2. After changing some money in the airport with a really crappy exchange rate, we left the gate for the main terminal, breezed through customs without anything more than a "buenos dias" and then, upon reaching the ground transportation area, we were welcomed by the familiar pressure of Mexican salesmen greeting us with shouts of taxi! taxi! as we walked to ground transportation....men coming to us to sell us taxi tickets.

We settled on one (who was likely just the most aggressive), bought our taxi ticket and we were off to Hotel Catedral which is located in the historic district in the central area of town just blocks from the capital building and other government offices.

Basically this is the equivalent of staying two or three blocks from the White House, only a lot more public activity takes place in the large square in front of the senate and capital building then would ever be seen in the U.S. (everything from street vendors, entertainers to naked bicycling protesters -- more on that later).

Anyway, we managed to live through the cab ride which is always surprising in Mexico given that there do not seem to be any traffic laws or any traffic signs. The street lights or more like street suggestions than anything else. Plus, no one wears seatbelts and the taxis are rarely equipped with seatbelts.

It's funny -- everyone tells you to be careful when you visit Mexico City but they always emphasize the wrong thing and overlook the true one great danger here - the absolute possibility of being ! Anyway, I appreciate the taxi ride from the airport into the historic district because there are some truly awesome looking parts of this city and the ride is like a quick overview of the various neighborhoods. And this only emphasizes what I always tell people - that Mexico City feels very European in character. Of course, most people don't buy this or grasp this concept if they haven't been to Mexico or other Latin American places with heavy colonial influence like Argentina.

Anyway, here's a few pictures that hopefully capture a bit of the chaos and lack of control you feel as a passenger in a Mexican Taxi. And, yes, that is indeed a fire eater standing in traffic.





3. Not only does Mexico City feel very European, it also feels a little early 1980s - or hell, even a little 1950s. Things are a bit more formal here than in the U.S and there are people around who try and help you do everything - carry your bags, pour soda in your glass, straighten your napkin, etc.

I was reminded of this when we got to our Hotel. The price of the place would be a budget motel by U.S. standards ($550 pesos total per night which is less than $55 USD) but everything at this place is a touch more elegant - bellboys, restaurants, a travel agency - everything you would expect in a downtown Hyatt or something - plus the room would have easily been $200 in Manhattan given it's size and location. Not too mention, the 7th floor rooftop terrace overlooking a busy market street and the Zocalo. We had lunch in the hotel for less than $15
- the point I'm trying to make is that Mexico is a cheap place for us to visit - you get more bang for your buck here than in other big cities with just as much to do, if not more.

I'm not saying you can't make Mexico expensive if you want to - you can - there are plenty of pricey places (usually with American sounding names - like "ocean drive" or some other nonsense written in English). If you do your homework though, this can be a very cheap place to visit. However, I kinda hope people keep their biased impressions of the city and this country - it makes it easier for me and more appealing for me to keep visiting in the future!




This first picture shows our hotel in the distance and the other photos were taken from the patio at the hotel on the 7th floor.









3. Off to see the capital

a. One of the most amazing things about Mexico is it's large collection of well preserved archaeological sites. Some sites - like Teotihicuan and Chichen Itza - are certainly more preserved than others. However, some of the sites, like Templo Mayor make up for their lack of quality preservation with the location and uniqueness of the site and historical context. The entire site is located directly in the middle one of the busiest parts of the city - just sitting their off the Zocalo. This place has been inhabited continuously as a large city since 1500 B.C. And, once the Spanish arrived and conquered, new areas were simply built around and over the old pieces - often integrating the structures and architecture into the Spanish traditional 16th and 17th century buildings. Amazing.




























b. It rained both afternoons we were in Mexico City at the exact same time of the day. Luckily we had just walked into the 3 story, very well done, Museo del Templo Mayor when the rain started pouring. After waiting out the storm with groups of school kids on field trips, we wandered back out onto the streets of the Zocalo in the late afternoon that presented us with temperatures clearly 5-10 degrees cooler then before the rain (probably mid to upper 60s).



c. One of the best parts about the national buildings surrounding the Zocalo is the large collection of gigantic Diego Rivera murals adorning the walls. Unfortunately, the camera battery died before I was able to see all of the paintings - but I did get one quick photo of the major mural in the first staircase.




4. After a rest at the hotel, back out in the rain to Cafe de Tocuba for dinner. This is the same place I ate at 8 years ago and it really hasn't changed much. As a matter of fact, I doubt it's really changed in the past 80 years (other than the computer terminals for orders and credit cards that are inconspicuously hidden around the place).





5. Mexicans are crazy about wrestling and wrestling is crazy in Mexico (Lucha Libre) - so of course I had to go. The matches take place every Friday night and are held in the Mexico Arena. We took a cab there after dinner at around 9pm.

Mexico City is a late town and while the matches started up at 8:30, there was still more than enough wrestling left when we arrived. From the second we stepped out of the taxi (a $5 dollar ride across town by the way - easily 30 or 40 bucks in Tampa), we knew why this event had oddly appealed to us -- the streets were alive with vendors hawking masks, costumes, and toys and everything else related to lucha libre.

Of course, we were swarmed by ticket hawkers. Luckily, I managed to get the ticket price down to only 40% of the original asking price (he wanted $250 pesos per ticket, I got him down to $200 pesos for BOTH tickets --- about $20 USD). Mainly because this really was all the cash I had with me at that point (ATMs - cajeros - are few and far between).

Standing on the street, our feet shook from the roars of the 8,000-10,000 person crowd inside. After getting our tickets (boletas) we were escorted into the main arena and were immediately in awe of the scene that unfolded and the close proximity of our seats to the ring.

The most amazing part was that while the wrestlers are absolutely great athletes (doing backflips from high up, taking the brunt of 300 pound men landing on them, doing really silly looking games of what appeared to be leap frog), the wrestling was even more fake looking than it appears on TV and - even more to the point - it was amazing how emotional the fans were about an event so scripted.

This sport is only second to soccer in this country and the people love their favorites. Luckily I was able to get off a few quick pictures before the security guard came over to stop me from taking pictures. Of course, being the only two gringos in the place, we were easily able to put the camera away with a "lo siento" and all was well. I just have absolutely no idea what the rules were or how the winners were determined in the 3 matches that I did see. MISTICO! MISTICIO!





A busy day 1, and even busier day 2, a travel day on day 3....and now finally on day 4 in San Miguel, a much appreciated rhythm and organization to life is beginning to establish itself. More on La Casa de Trotsky and bus rides and a crazy old hilly town tomorrow.

hasta luego

Friday, May 25, 2007

The Summer of Sharks and Beaches. Chapter 2

Chapter 2

The first series of shark attacks occurred on Memorial Day weekend during that 23rd summer on the other coast – “the Space Coast” of the Atlantic Ocean. Three attacks in one day – all young people – two surfers and one girl boogie-boarding with friends in the small waves that lap the shore. Halifax Medical Center had treated shark attacks and surfers before but never like this - maybe three in one summer but not three in one day.

The news report was playing in the living room of the family’s home that he was staying with during this transition period – a break up with the college girlfriend had left Evan with no apartment of his own and, with the impending move one month away, a roommate situation was difficult to arrange.

That spring, Evan had taken a temporary job as a middle school science teacher. It actually worked out quite perfectly. While he wouldn’t graduate from college until late May, he was done with all of his course work. The middle school was a private institution so they were not tied to the same requirements for their teachers that would limit Evan from working in a public school without yet officially having received his college degree.

During that spring before graduation, his own school related responsibilities consisted of wrapping up the honors thesis project and arranging more applications and interviews for law school. The days were essentially free with no real commitments during any specific block of time. The opportunity to teach for a few months sounded appealing to Evan probably more for the chance to evaluate a potential future career choice than to earn his first real paycheck. While it’s true that Evan was about to head off to law school – a fairly prestigious law school at that, especially given his modest blue collar upbringing – he still didn’t really picture himself as a lawyer. Not that the profession wasn’t appealing or exciting to him – it was. For Evan, law was simply the best way he could think of to make his passion for marine life, the ocean, and invertebrate ecology into a career that fit his personality.

Evan was a rationalist and, for the most part, a fairly serious and bright student, but these traits were not enough to make him scientist material. His mind didn’t work that way. The dogma of scientific principle was too linear for his expansive curiosity. Plus, his mother, a nail saloon worker and self-proclaimed psychic astrologist, always told him that, as a Gemini born during the year of the Horse, he would have to find work crafting words and arguments in a creative way. Evan certainly didn’t buy into any of his Mom’s asinine psychic shit but, after years and years of hearing this advice, it became hard for him to separate out a mother’s true insight and experience from the $25 bookstore paperback garbage that cluttered her mind (and by proxy, his as well). Thus, he eventually came to believe this as solid truth – he was destined to exploit his interpersonal skills and for him, that meant exploiting those skills to protect and ensure the unharmed existence of the world that he was much more concerned with of Dusky pipe fish, sea cucumbers, and anemones that made their habitat in the shallow Gulf coastal mangroves and marshes.

Not too mention that Evan had an ego driven by a self-aware confidence not seen in most men until much later in life. This wasn’t an ego based on conceited selfish pride – no, this was different. This was an ego that came with the experience and realization that using words to maneuver into and out of situations could be a powerful social weapon and aphrodisiac. Thus, Evan’s word skills and oratory prowess gave him confidence that made up for his average looks and the just barely above average, slight-underachiever persona he conveyed as a student.

For these reasons, law seemed a much better choice to him than science. During college he had spent time in the marine biology and oceanography labs – first as a volunteer stuck with the scut work of cleaning fish tanks and hosing down the boats as the grad students returned from day trips into the Gulf of Mexico collecting plankton, deep core samples, and temperature readings for their dissertation projects with titles like “Variation by Latitude in Diurnal Pachycerianthus fimbratus Habitat” or “Florida Continental Shelf Changes and Energy exploration in the Holocene”. Later though, with his interest in the subject matter on obvious display to the faculty of the Marine Life Division of Biological Sciences, Evan found himself with a part-time paid position as the Lab Manager. He got along great with the grad students and the faculty treated him like a PhD candidate, not an undergrad 19 year old. By his senior year, he had developed his own interests in the lab and a project that explored short term changes in the population of Florida shallow coastal water fish in relation to public policy initiatives which had paved the way for increased condo development and oil drilling close to the shore line. Certainly, Evan would have had no problem finding a top-ranked PhD program to fund his work and education after college. Even with his state school and mediocre grades, Evan had received emails from the big Hopkins Marine Lab Project up on Chesapeake Bay and the Stanford Institute for Conservation Ocean Management (SICOM).

But, this line of work just didn’t seem quite right for Evan. Late at night, while waiting for samples to spin down in the centrifuge or for tanks to reach appropriate levels of salinity, he would wander around the department library – an old classroom up on the third floor of the Southside Tanks Building – stripped of desks and filled with shelves of the faculty and grad student dissertations and publications collected over decades and decades of academic life.

This room both amazed and depressed Evan. He saw the same ideas presented in slightly different ways across generations – ideas that were sentenced to a lifeless purgatory in black bound manuscripts published by the University Press. These brilliant professors at the twilight of their careers had worked hard to change the part of the world that they understood, that they could contribute to and that they would, during their lifetime, become expert in defining and describing. Nonetheless, even with that expertise, they toiled to have their perspective understood more broadly than that room without success, or – even more frustrating and difficult for Evan to comprehend – they didn’t try at all to find a broader audience for their work. Some of these people seemed perfectly content with their small world of Caulerpa taxifolia experts and annual conferences. Actually – and even more limiting to Evan – some of these ideas themselves seemed better suited for their small audiences and a life of anonymity for the author. Do you really care if Syganthus floridae is polyandrous? Does this have a broader impact on the world and global affairs?

That was the sticking point for Evan. If you were fortunate enough to have a choice in your career, the predictable part of the path of life, how could you pick a life that is, by definition, limited in scope and relevance?

Those late nights in the library and lab helped Evan figure out that he needed the audience of others to better know himself and, I suppose, to validate his existence and passion for something so seemingly trivial as the animals and plants that live in the water off of the coast of Florida. That is how he narrowed his professional life decision down to teacher versus lawyer – both professions that seek a broader audience to justify your ideas and interests.

He quickly adjusted to life as a middle school biology teacher and felt comfortable knowing that, if law school didn’t work out or if he needed a career change later in life, this was certainly an option. He was able to make biology accessible to most of the kids in his class and had a great way of forming individual connections with large groups through his youthful appearance and genuine excitement about the animal kingdom, cells, DNA, and even disease. Kids can sense a poser, a fake and a phony from miles away – luckily Evan was none of those things when it came to the subject matter he taught. This made up for his relative lack of skills as a teacher.

Of course, Evan did have quite a bit to learn as a teacher and a long way to go before truly teaching to the best of his abilities. In order to facilitate the development of young teachers, even the temporary teachers like Evan, the school had set up a mentor program in which the new teachers were paired with veterans. To qualify for the mentor program, the veteran teacher has to log over 20 years teaching with no disciplinary actions against them. This is an amazing feat in any line of work and most of the teachers in the mentor program were, indeed, amazing people. However, Evan was lucky to not just get an amazing veteran teacher, but an amazing, if simple, human being named Douglas Kuzka.

Douglas (Kuzka while at work) had been in the English department of the school for 22 years – as long as Evan had been alive. In his mid-50s, Kuzka connected with Evan over a 30 year age gap that filled quickly with mutual respect for the vibrancy of youth and the experience of age.

There was an air of humble dignity that radiated from Kuzka’s simple outfits of lose fitting brown khakis that he paired with thin Banana Republic sweaters or soft cotton T-shirts. Matched with alternating grey tennis shoes or slide-on loafers almost every day, Kuzka suited up in his uniform and, suited up as himself, delivering a calm exuberance that contributed to the credibility he had from his mix of education and experience. The man appeared oblivious to the natural environment of heat and humidity that existed outside and, while he was not in bad shape for a middle aged man, Evan could not picture him doing yard work or running outside, being forced to wear shorts or gym clothes. He was the kind of man who made drinking water from a plastic bottle look somehow sophisticated, natural and clean. Most likely, Kuzka’s decent level of fitness did, indeed, come more from his choice of drinking water and eating fruit almost constantly throughout the day, as opposed to any type of regular exercise routine. Douglas Kuzka was not a pompous man though. His appearance combined with his small, elite, private liberal art college background and his early history of teaching school in one of the New Hampshire prep academies might give Kuzka the perception of superiority. However, this wasn’t who the man was – this was a man who just fit in to himself with a soothing comfort that enabled him to transition from a respected peer among academics, a mentor to younger teachers and students, and a family man in the clutches of suburban America life with kids, a hedge, and a nice chunk of land nestled on the river.

Evan had become comfortable interacting with older adults in the marine labs – but the relationship with Kuzka was different. Aside from his parents, Evan had never been close and felt so comfortable with a person so much older. In addition, this was a different kind of closeness than Evan shared with family members. This was friendship – this was Kuzka talking about his wife’s inability to have orgasms after the birth of their second child 15 years ago and the shit-headed owner of the New York Knicks who was running that team into the ground by allowing bad coach and bad GM one after another to nearly bankrupt the franchise.

Evan and Kuzka became very close friends that spring. After Cori broke the lease in April, only a month before Evan’s graduation and their planned move to California, it was perfectly natural for Kuzka to offer Evan the spare bedroom of his comfortable home in the unincorporated, sprawling, outskirts of the city.

Evan’s apartment with Cori was near a string of strip malls on the busy drag leading to the public beaches and the small access road that ended at the large marine labs and docks of his department. Certainly the apartment was not waterfront, or really all that close to the water, but also not more than a 15 minute car ride or 30 minute bike ride away from the brackish bay he had grown up with and worked with these last 4 years. Unfortunately, Kuzka’s house was even further from this body of water, as well as the more touristy sandy beaches in the nearby county that Evan also liked to frequent. Nonetheless, the water was still in driving range and that was his only real requirement for a place of residence, especially with something as temporary as this current arrangement he would have with Douglas. So it came to be that Evan moved into Kuzka’s house during a very odd time of break up, of loneliness, of excitement, of waiting, and of change that defined his current status in this world.

Evan was standing in his bedroom at Kuzka’s house when he heard the news report in the background. The TV in the living room was always left on at ear-cringingly high volumes. This was mostly due to the lazy habits of Douglas’s 15 year old kid and his numerous friends who occupied the house eating microwave pizza rolls and playing video games. For some reason, the volume of the TV while playing the video game was softer than the volume of the cable TV feed. Inevitably, when the group of 15 year olds would tire of beating prostitutes with baseball bats in the newest version of Pimp! they would smash down the power button on the Playstation and run out of the house to satisfy the next short-term desire of their adolescent urges. Apparently this had just happened, leaving Evan with no choice but to listen to the evening news yelling at him down the hall.

As I said previously, the first series of shark attacks had occurred on the Atlantic Ocean coast – but now, a second and oddly similar set of attacks had occurred much closer to home. This time, three attacks occurred in one day in the Gulf. Not near the area of the Gulf that Evan knew well, but instead up in the panhandle of Florida, closer to the border of Alabama. Neither attack had led to death, but, according to the shrill blonde women whose face Evan could picture easily from her voice, both attacks did lead to very traumatic outcomes for at least two of the victims.

The boogie border in the Atlantic Ocean attack had lost part of her right hand. Apparently, the shark had struck while she was paddling the board out past the breakers on the sandbar approximately 50 feet offshore. The other victim, a young man who was graduating Panama City High School with a scholarship to play division two football at a nearby state college in southern Georgia, had his left leg mauled midway down the thigh. Unfortunately, this necessitated amputation upon arrival to the hospital, essentially ending a potential football career and free education before it started.

Evan thought of these things and his mind wandered back to the semester long internship he had done two years ago at the state Natural History Museum in northern Florida which houses the International Shark Attack Database. As Evan thought of the shark expert there who had a fetish for young girls with pigtails, he heard the shrill local anchor women exclaim, “Maybe instead of calling this ‘The Summer to Remember’, we ought to call this one ‘The Summer of the Shark’, what do you think Joe?”

Evan repeated the phrase “summer of the shark”, smirking at the stupidity of such a statement while thinking about how boring the Spike Lee movie Summer of Sam was too watch again on DVD. As a matter of fact, Evan recalled, this was the last DVD to arrive in the mail at the apartment he shared with Cori and was probably – no, definitely – the movie playing the last time him and Cori had disinterested sex on his blue futon mattress he kept spread out in the corner of the barren room they had used for sleeping, fucking, and watching TV over those past two years of their early 20s.

Tuesday, May 15, 2007

The Summer of Sharks and Beaches Chpt 1

The thick heavy air that accompanies the reality and finality of adulthood had not yet settled on his life during the summer of sharks and beaches. No, this was still just the thick and salty Gulf air, all too familiar to Evan by this, his 23rd summer in west central Florida and, of course, his 23rd summer of life.

The subtle changes in season associated with mid-October in Florida are only appreciated by the most astute and observant natives of the swampy sunshine state. Many argue that there are only two seasons down here – hot and hotter. This is not the case though. While the state, especially the central and southern regions, is, indeed, always relatively warm, markers beyond temperature usher in each new season. It’s during mid-October that the taste of summer falls slowly and quietly away to unassuming and less oppressive warmth that marks the oncoming Florida autumn. Usually, no one knows that the change has occurred until weeks afterwards. Only then do you realize that your hands do not burn on the steering wheel and that your shirt is not soaked during a walk in the thinner evening air.

A Florida native and astute observer, Evan was certainly, if subconsciously, aware of these annual variations, attuned to the markers of change hinting at the coming seasons. However, he had never noticed the other climate - the context of his life and the air of his youth. Thus, it’s not surprising that Evan didn’t notice the slight difference in the flavor of his life that hung just on the fringe of his existence that summer like a 75 degree day at the end of September.

Friday, May 04, 2007

Friday, April 27, 2007

Fiction #2: Solution to a Dilemma. Part 2

Click here to read Part 1 of "Solution to a dilemma"

Heather Pizzo actually turned out well and we remain friends to this very day. Not surprisingly, she majored in art during college but later did a master’s degree in environmental planning. Now she works for a non-profit out in Arizona. She lives there with my friend Kevin – who I will tell you about in just a second. They visit often - she gets along with my wife and her kids are friends with my kids; I think you get the picture. Let’s leave the Pizzos on hold for a moment. I want to tell you about the other half. Kevin Long and, of course, his mom Erolyn and her “friend” Chuck.

Kevin was my roommate during the first year of college – he actually lived in my large walk-in-closet for a reduced rate on rent. I met him at a record shop in St. Pete, not through school and, like many of my friends, he was a couple of years older than me and had the aura of perpetual student and part time world traveler. Hip without being cool. Kevin was shy but also comfortable in his dorkiness as a sound aficionado. He didn’t like being around many other people and, thus, it took many years for him to understand the feelings that Heather developed for him. More on that in a bit – let’s talk a little about Kevin’s mom.

Erolyn was overweight and wore tacky clothing from Sears or Wal-mart. A receptionist in a real-estate office, she lived for happy hours and weekends during which she would binge drink like a 20 year old student at a frat house kegger. She was a tragic figure more than a character in a comedy mainly because she did care about Kevin so much, but did so little right from the standpoint of appropriate parenting.

Erolyn was slightly more attractive when she was 25 years younger, as most women, even fat women, tend to be. This mild attractiveness, combined with the desire to stay drunk for as long of a period as possible, had led Erolyn through a string of bad relationships that followed the breakup with Kevin’s father.

Kevin really didn’t know his father at all. Sure, he knew the guy’s name (Roy Hartmann) but he had no idea where Roy was now and why Roy never came to visit. This wasn’t something that Kevin spent much time dwelling on, at least not openly. Instead, he had known Joe, Chris, Greg, Tim, Robert, and Bill – just a few of the many suitors his mom went through. These guys were just the ones that stuck around long enough for Kevin to at least memorize their names. Unfortunately, this string of alcoholics planted some poor memories in Kevin’s noggin which included sitting in bars on Saturday afternoons where he would ask for quarters to play the old sit-down version of Centipede that had the rolling joystick and was made to look like a small table.

Erolyn’s saving grace was that she comprehended her mistakes – she had poor judgment but good insight and was constantly trying to “make it up” to Kevin. This included doing things like letting him live in her cramped home that seemed to always include a new man – a temporary co-habitating mate. The offer to always move back home, even to the uncomfortable cramped home of an alcoholic mother, was appreciated by a backpack traveler, part time student, usually unemployed but literary and intellectually savvy slacker.

So, you’re probably asking what all this has to do with death and all of those bleak sounding things that I talked about earlier. Well, indulge me for a few more minutes. We are getting there – promise. I need to tell you about Kevin and Heather – not as individuals – we have done enough of that – but more as a couple. This part of the story takes place after The Days of Holding Hands and First Kisses. You know, somewhere in between The College Years and Real-Deal Adulthood.

Kevin met Heather while he was living with me. They connected instantly and saw the world through a similar lens colored by music, art and environmentalism. However, it was with some difficulty that their relationship became romantic. There were many starts and stops, break ups and make ups along the way. But, two years into a more defined and typical boyfriend-girlfriend relationship, Kevin and Heather displayed a comfort with each other that brightened the routines of life with a predictable rhythm of love, sex, and companionship. It was no surprise to me that Kevin followed Heather to Arizona when she completed her master’s and took the job with a conservation group somewhere in the middle of the frickin’ desert. Apparently though, this move did come as a bit of a surprise to both Heather and Kevin’s parents respectively. Now don’t get me wrong – both sets of parents liked their kid’s significant other. It is just that neither knew how serious the relationship had become. So many false starts, so many interruptions but now a move across the country? It just seemed a bit rushed – but they had been living together for a year and life worked out okay for the couple when they arrived in Arizona.

The first time Heather told me about her parents break up was while we were at a restaurant having raw oysters and beer just before she moved. I was accustomed to a world where parents divorce and couples split, so the news itself was no real shocker. I mean, after Greg’s parents broke up in our senior year of high school, I realized that even parents and families that had been together for 20 or 30 years – even those types of relationships – were susceptible to an ending other than “death do us part”. Hell, my wife’s grandparents broke up a year ago and they were only five years away from their 50th Wedding Anniversary! What surprised me about Heather’s news – and surprised Heather – was that her parents had actually broken up over three years ago but were still living together and carrying on the façade of an intimate relationship. Now, I’m not done yet – the scenario gets even more odd.

Going on the fourth year of the breakup-marriage, the parents didn’t intend to escalate or hurry down the path to official dissolution of their joint life together. You might assume that this is because they had hope of working out their marital problems and finding happiness. That, however, was not at all the case. By this point, the parents admitted openly to Heather that they didn’t even like each other as people, much less as lovers. The truth of it was that the parents found themselves surrounded by the entrapments of life – a mortgage, car payments, kids in college, shared friends – entrapments that they were too weary to escape. Plus, when the break up originally occurred, Heather’s younger sister was still living at home. Scared to face the reality of a single life, the couple continued living in the same house and acting as if nothing had changed. They went to dinners together, work events, and even vacations. The vacations were one of the first things that I didn’t understand. I mean, it’s one thing to put up a front around the people who know you, but why purposely spend time and money somewhere else with a person you don’t like?

After Heather left town, I thought that the Pizzos would definitely divorce. But they didn’t. Their world grew stranger as they defined new terms of a relationship like no other. Kimberly Pizzo was now dating a man living in a different state. One or two weekends a month were spent flying to Atlanta to see him, leaving Roger alone at the home to also carry on a personal life. Then, during the week, the couple would continue their life together. Now the really strange thing is that by all accounts, the two didn’t really fight very often and actually seemed rather well adjusted in public. Maybe they were on to something with their relationship?

Kevin and Heather returned for a visit to Charlotte during the first Christmas after their move to Arizona. They were each close to their respective families and savored the opportunity to spend time with relatives and old friends. Unfortunately for Heather, the relationship between her parents was still essentially dead. However, with the solution to the dilemma undetermined, the lives of Roger and Kimberly had been on hold for five years and the effects of this were starting to show. Her father had grown withdrawn and quiet, rarely speaking at dinner or in the house while Kimberly was around. The backyard garden was desolate – no orchids, no red mulch. Her mother had grown venomous, constantly complaining about her life, about Roger, about the mistakes she had made years and years ago. There were no drum circles in her life anymore.

Okay, so I hope you get the picture. The life of Roger and Kimberly Pizzo was fucking strange. They lived together and were married but didn’t want to be in the same room with each other. However, there were absolutely no plans to change anything because the two were simply frozen in place, unable to act any longer on emotional motivation. Nothing was going to change accept the misery of the entire Pizzo family – that would certainly get worse. The worst part of all of this was the damage to Heather and, ultimately, to the relationship between Heather and Kevin. While in Charlotte, Heather had to endure a terse amount of time spent doing “family things”. When one parent was out of the room or away running errands, running through life, Heather was forced to hear about the horribleness of the other person – beginning to see that side-taking would soon be inevitable. A nasty task she had avoided up to that point.

During that Christmas visit, Kevin’s mom, Erolyn, decided that it would be a good idea to meet Heather Pizzo’s parents. I mean, after all, her son was living with their daughter and the relationship was going into its fourth year, looking very serious and stable.

Do you remember earlier that I told you Erolyn had her heart in the right place but didn’t exactly make the best or brightest decisions? Well, this is a great example, a simple metaphor if you will, of her relationship with the world and, especially, with her son. Kevin had been a vegetarian since he was 18 years old. His mother was absolutely aware of this. He kept soy products in the house and talked about his choice of diet passionately and often. In addition, Heather and her family were all vegetarians – even the type of people who grow their own vegetables and have a big outdoor compost heap that grows larger each year. Erolyn was not ignorant to these facts, she just didn’t grasp their meaning; she could repeat the information to you but not interpret it or adjust her behavior accordingly. The Pizzos agreed to meet Erolyn and accepted an invitation to her home for dinner.

On a Sunday night in late December, Erolyn cooked a traditional turkey dinner, complete with green beans – which of course had ham (a Southern specialty), and mashed potatoes. A turkey dinner for a vegetarian crowd. Her house, her rules, I guess. Right? To be fair though, the turkey might not have been Erolyn’s idea. During this period, Erolyn was living with Chuck – another man in a long line of temporary co-habitating males. Now, Chuck was what you might call a guns-meat-N-Cars kind of guy. Why? Simply because he pretty much only talked about guns, meat and cars – or at least some derivation or combination of those topics. Especially combination topics – for example – hunting on an ATV is a subject that would cover some aspect of all of Chuck’s interests. Anyway, this dinner was on the Sunday after Christmas and it would turn out to be a very significant event with the unexpected power to resolve a philosophical and emotional conundrum.

Chuck, the amateur expert at all things firepower, decided that Erolyn needed – just had to have – a small handgun to keep in her purse for “protection”. On Christmas morning, Erolyn unwrapped a package that was shaped like the standard department store shirt cardboard box but had the weight of a brick and rattled with the sound of metal hitting plastic. She tore of the bow, the ribbon, and the wrapping paper to find a grey plastic case with the world “Ruger” etched onto the front in large block lettering. In her stocking, another cardboard container shaped like a pint of milk weighed down the big red sock, causing it to pull on the plastic hook stuck to the pseudo-mantel on the particle board entertainment center which also held the large 32” TV. Inside the first box was a .22 caliber Ruger semi-automatic and, of course, inside the other container were the bullets. Chuck excitedly helped Erolyn load the bullets into a gun and taught her the basics of using the pistol with the promise of a trip to the firing range at some point in the future. Erolyn didn’t know how to respond to the gift. She had certainly never owned a gun before, but the feeling of such a powerful object, cold in her hands, was a bit invigorating. She could get used to this.

Roger and Kimberly Pizzo still shared a Volvo XC90 – really Roger’s car more than Kimberly’s because she would drive the BMW 330 on most mornings. But on weekends and when they went places together, it was always in the Volvo. They didn’t speak and were not friendly with each other but yet they continued to ride together, eat together, sleep in the same room and share the same bank account. The Volvo pulled up in the cracked driveway of Erolyn’s ranch-style home in the middle of the city around 7pm. Heather and Kevin arrived earlier that day and were inside; busy preparing turkey that they would not eat while Erolyn made whiskey-sours and drinks with a blue tint from some type of sugary additive. After a few drinks, Erolyn wasn’t drunk but was well on her way. The house smelled slightly of cats and cigarette smoke and Roger made an obvious grimace as the odor smashed into his nostrils upon walking into the living room.

They sat in front of the TV, watching a college football bowl game. This was of absolutely no interest to Roger or Kimberly Pizzo and they gave each other a glancing look of mutual agony – a rare shared alliance in their marriage over the last few years. Kimberly held a plastic tumbler full of tiny ice slivers from the refrigerator ice maker and a sweet alcoholic concoction. Kevin grabbed a bottle of Coors for himself and for Roger. Erolyn and Heather continued drinking their blue drinks while Chuck watched the turkey cooking in the oven. The Ohio State Buckeyes scored another touchdown and went up by 21 points over a lesser rated team from the SEC. Small talk over nuts and cashews centered around Christmas, Christmas trips, and Christmas gifts. The oven buzzed and Erolyn got up to help Chuck with the turkey. Kimberly noticed the grey box sitting by the couch with the word “Ruger.” It still had little bits of tape and the fragmentary remains of blue and white snowman wrapping paper, stuck in little chunks scattered about the plastic.

“Oh, was that a gift, Erolyn?” said Kimberly as Erolyn passed by the box on the way to the kitchen.

“Yes, that’s from Chuck. It’s a Ruger” said Erolyn.

“What’s that?” shouted Chuck from the kitchen, thinking that Erolyn was talking to him or trying to get his attention.

“Nothin’ hun, I was just telling them about the Ruger you gave me. I will be right there” Erolyn said as she looked down the hall and shouted to the kitchen.

“Don’t worry about it, show them the Ruger. I’ll bring out the turkey.” The oven door closed shut as Chuck returned the shout down the hall to the living room.

“You sure?” said Erolyn.

“No problem.” Returned Chuck.

“I don’t have any idea what a Ruger is, Erolyn.” Kimberly said this after patiently waiting for the hallway conversation to end.

“Oh, dear Kim, you’ve just got to have one of these. For protection.”

Erolyn sat back down on the couch and picked up the plastic box. She sat it on her lap and opened the two latches in the front. Kimberly and Roger looked on with anticipation while Heather and Kevin glanced at each other with a knowing smirk of quiet protest. They had seen the gun earlier but were not a big fan of personal firearms or guns in the home. Erolyn reached into case and freed the gun from its soft foam molding. She picked it up gingerly and held it by the handle.

“Whoa, a gun.” Said Roger, a little bit surprised and overwhelmed by the sudden presence of a weapon.

“Wow, Erolyn, is it real?” asked Kimberly, trying to recall if she had ever been that close to a pistol or real gun of any sort.

“Oh yeah babe, it’s real. And loaded. Here, hold it.” Erolyn pointed the gun away from herself and from her guests, towards the Ohio State Buckeyes. She reached across the couch to Kimberly.

“No, I don’t think I should touch it. I’ve never held a g-----“

It happened just like that. No warning. Quick….Quick. That’s the easiest way I know to describe it. The gun was on the floor in the box, then it was in Erolyn’s hand, then it was being passed across the sofa, then Kimberly pushed the gun away but the barrel was inadvertently turned towards her, Erolyn was letting go of the handle and POP. It was like a little firecracker you get in the big plastic combo kit on New Years or Fourth of July. A no big deal sound that answered all of the questions.

The gun fell to the floor and Kimberly’s eyes rolled back in her head as her neck hyperextended. This caused her head to pound against the wall and then move forward like a bowling ball on a straw. Blood trickled from her neck. She made gurgling sounds as she drowned in the thick red liquid, her trachea pierced by a .22 caliber bullet. But it didn’t take long at all. Kevin jumped up and tried to put pressure on the trachea, keeping it closed to seal it from the blood trying to pour in from the transected artery sitting just to the left of the cartilaginous rings. The white couch turned red and Heather screamed out with a shrill, almost monotone, sound forcing its way out from her tense diaphragm and constricted vocal cords. Kim was dead before the paramedics arrived.

Kimberly Pizzo, Time of Death 20:08, December 30 2006. The Pizzo marriage, Time of Death at least 5 years earlier, the independent life of Roger Pizzo was put on hold in 2001 and allowed to continue the moment his wife died, her blood staining a new Ralph Lauren cotton shirt he had received as a Christmas gift from Heather’s younger sister.

Her funeral was small and I attended as a guest of Kevin and Heather’s. I attended out of respect for school birthday parties and a field trip chaperone from years before. Even Heather didn’t cry – no one really cried much at all. Roger just stared straight ahead, maybe thinking about a different life long ago where he and Kim were best friends and inseparatable lovers. Was this even the same women lying in the casket in front of him? The same woman with whom he had built a house, made a garden, traveled the world? Maybe he was thinking about his future – a future that didn’t exist three days ago. Let out of a dilemma with the only solution to a complex situation. His wife’s death freed him to continue living and taught me that some questions have no answers and that some problems can not be solved during this life.

Sunday, April 22, 2007

Fiction #2: Solution to a Dilemma. Part 1


Part 1

For me, the underlying truth regarding the permanence of mortality came about when I realized that some problems couldn’t be solved in this life. That mom can’t make everything better and that some questions simply have no answer. In other words, I found out that death is, for many, the only solution to the dilemma of life, the only answer to a few of the complex problems and puzzles we face. It wasn’t just getting older that taught me this lesson. No, I can sum up how I learned that in two words -- Heather Pizzo.

But what’s the fun in summing something up? A two-word answer doesn’t provide you with any insight, doesn’t teach you the same lesson, and certainly doesn’t keep you from wondering if I’m a bleak person for saying such things, like “death is the answer to life”. So, let me tell you a little bit about Heather Pizzo, Kevin Long, and, most importantly, their parents.

Roger and Kimberly Pizzo were two people who lived in the same house without living together. The Pizzos, still married after 25 years, were no longer a couple and did not get along very well. Not even good friends.

Now, hey, don’t get me wrong; the Pizzos have always been a bit on the weird side. After all, these were the parents of Heather Pizzo – Heather Pizzo! I don’t know if you grew up with a person like Heather as a kid but I bet you did. This was the girl in first grade who told everyone that there was simply no such thing as Santa Clause. I still remember her delivery of the crushing blow; we sat on the old metal monkey bars, 5 feet in the sky with feet dangling over the edge, tiny butts balanced on the thin bars and both hands gripping metal tightly. Pressed to provide evidence to these blasphemous claims of no Santa, Heather brought in a signed note from Roger Pizzo, her father, which read:

“Children, your parents have deceived you. Santa Clause, like the referential God he represents, is DEAD! No one is watching over you and this message is your freedom.”

Now in those days, an adult’s word was gold in the court of recess. The signed note, the simple claim of truth, well, that was enough for us. There were a lot of crying kids and angry parents that year among Ms. Kowan’s Little Lions (we wanted to be the Prowling Panthers but the class down the hall took the name, and the cool stuffed mascot, before we had the chance).

Heather had a birthday party in her home – I want to say that it was 6th grade, but it could have been 7th. Not really sure anymore as the details and distinctions between 6th and 7th grade begin to blur in the blobby vaults of my mind. The memories of 5th - 8th grade are basically characterized by an awkward fumbling insecurity, so it’s a bit difficult to tease out specific events that happened in one grade or the other – let’s just call it the “Days of Holding Hands and First Kisses” and leave it at that. Okay, back to Heather’s birthday party:

Once upon a time, in The Days of Holding Hands and First Kisses, Heather Pizzo had a birthday party. There was no cake, no hats, no party favors. Plus, we were asked not to bring presents – so, there were no gifts either – there were no presents at a little girls birthday party?! The card actually said we ask that you respect our attempts to raise a minimal materialist as we celebrate the birth of our beautiful daughter by not bringing any presents. Even in The Days of Holding Hands and First Kisses, most kids could grasp that things worked a little different at the Pizzo household. If they didn’t get that before arriving at the party, they certainly figured it out while they were there. Kimberly Pizzo – Ms. Pizzo – Heather’s mom and a high school art teacher, wore one of those big necklaces with wooden blue beads carved into ambiguous geometric shapes. Her hair was cut short and she felt like the opposite of my own mom.

Art teachers would make good leaders. Most of them just don’t have the confidence in their public speaking abilities and interpersonal skills to understand the potential. Why do I say this? Because art teachers have a way of sounding enthusiastically critical in response to whatever you say, do or produce. Ms. Pizzo was no exception to the rule. At the party, we sat down at two picnic tables in the backyard. The picnic tables had a natural look like they just spontaneously self-assembled from the pile of red pine mulch in backyard orchid garden, simply motivated by the creative environment to defy the laws of physics. Too perfect, too clean to be made by human hands. In actuality, the tables were built by Mr. Pizzo who was both the art museum’s carpenter and a set designer for the largest live theater venue in the city. While Ms. Pizzo talked non-stop, coddling and fawning over her flowers, her kids, and the guests at the birthday party, Mr. Pizzo hardly said a word. Stoic but nice, quiet but not stern.

We sat at the long red benches while Ms. Pizzo passed out thin pieces of rawhide cut into large circles. I remember wondering if this was food or craft. It turned out to be craft – or a “shared musical experience” to be specific. After passing out the rawhide, we also received these odd cardboard cylinders and cones, and even cardboard-cylinder-cones joined at the apex. You see, this was the necessary equipment to make – to create – your own drum, your own addition to the rhythmic percussion circle of sound. So, there I was, young and awkward, sitting in a circle on the back patio of Heather Pizzo’s house, banging on a drum that dripped glue onto my jeans from the sloppy attempt I had made of adhering the leather to the open rim at the top of the cylinder.

But you know what? It was a hell of a lot of fun. We were encouraged to bang loudly, to get up and dance, shimmy, and shake. To move with the music and parade around the flowers. Yeah, it was a little weird, very silly, but also more fun than Timmy Lambert’s stupid rolling skating party where I fell and broke my arm in 3rd grade, or Katie Fields’s dumb putt-putt golf day that same year. I have to say, from what I remember at that party and from the many other times I visited Heather’s home over the years, her parents always seemed happy, genuine, and romantic. Actually, her parents seemed much more in love than my own parents who were divorced and not speaking by the time I was ten years old. Heather’s parents went on dates, held-hands, called each other pet names and never seemed to argue or force themselves to swallow underlying tension in the presence of company.


To be cont......



Friday, April 20, 2007

dying alone in a crowded room

Fiction #1: Dying alone in a crowded room - rewritten


A steady stream of women, good-church-going women toting Bibles, food and membership directories, carry large handbags and wear carefully selected color-coordinated hats as they trickle in and out of the room on the corner.

The man in the katty-corner room is bound to the bed with tough black fabric restraints. He is forced to strain his neck and twist his body to catch a glimpse of the activity across the hall. This is what he wants to do but each time he tries, the large gun-wielding guard places a resistant hand on the man, untwists his IV tubes, and holds his arm outstretched waiting for his strength to overpower the dying man's curiosity.

This is a different picture then the one across the hall. This is a man alone; no, more alone than alone because he can't even get that far. Estranged from his family he will not take their calls from the nurse's station. Forlorn during his criminal trials, does he seek revenge by denying the right to bear witness to those who still love him? Dying alone with an off-duty officer looking to make extra money for a weekend trip, or to buy a gift for his girlfriend (Victoria's Secret?). Waiting for death to get off work is worse than waiting for water to boil. He glances at the clock on his cell phone - the kind with a keypad and a wireless headphone and sits down again next to the door, peeking across the hall.

I glance too - I glance at everything while trying to absorb something from the continuous stream of jargon that pours out of the attending physician's brain, out of his throat, out of his mouth into the halls of the ICU. I scribble down abbreviations, acronyms, key words to look these things up later - later when I can slow everything down to the speed of the cell phone clock that the sheriff’s deputy keeps watching. The nurse calls me "Doctor" and I hate this - I want everyone to know I know nothing. I want no one to expect anything from me at this point - certainly not the dignity that comes with witnessing death. A group of fourth years with another attending arrive next door and begin talking. I'm watching this - watching my inevitable life as it has been played out for students time and time again unfold 10 feet away. I glance back at the lab data and listen. Autoimmune disease, antibodies against the kidneys, kidney failure, leads to anemia - need transfusion, medication, maybe a kidney transplant. Could die - will die - without this treatment.

Another stream of women leave the room - this time they are accompanied by tidy men wearing button up shirts tucked into pleated khakis - no ties. Three of the men have cell phones clipped to their belts. One of the men - a large self-important man with graying hair and a bushy, New Jersey style - or maybe Long Island style - mustache, stops at the nurse's desk and walks over to the unit station - the head nurse (don't ever sit in that chair, don't ever use that computer - that's all I've been told about the head nurse). She looks mean, like a substitute teacher in third grade. The man with the bushy mustache squeezes her arm and says that she is doing a great job. The other men and the new set of women turn without a word and the group heads out the double-doors that automatically open from this side but require a code or a phone call from the other side.

Now is our chance. The room is rarely empty of visitors - always crowded with equipment, nurses, and women with handbags and matching hats and, of course, men with mustaches having conversations amongst each other in hushed tones near the door - blocking the door from the curious gaze of the dying prisoner and his constant guard, the attending and myself, and the hawkeye of the unit nurse zooming in from down the hall.

The two of us move into the room and I see the man for the first time. I notice a large red poster on the wall. It reminds me of a T-shirt for a 5K run or an advertisement for a blood drive. On it, a drop of blood with arms and legs is holding his hands up with his palms pointed out towards the viewer - fingers spread to say "STOP!" A white conversation bubble from a comic strip reads "NO BLOOD". The little blood drop looks like he would rather be wearing sweatbands screenprinted on the front of a runner's shirt, but this current gig will have to do for now.

The man looks tired - no that's not quite right - he does look tired but he also looks like he's in pain and further from peace than he's ever been - further than his religion - which he clings to in the face of death - ever promised him he would be during this life.

I notice a red bracelet on his right arm emblazoned with the same words as the poster, "NO BLOOD". He knows he is deteriorating, the structural components of his body pour out of his urine signaling the end of his kidneys. His oxygen mask is strapped to a slightly blue face - another face with a bushy mustache but amazingly clean cut for day 5 in the ICU. Struggling for air in between words, he answers questions and asks his own - questions that indicate at least the desire to live and the hope of improvement, as well as the understanding of what needs to be done in order to survive.

I look at his left hand - something I do a lot around other men now that I'm married - and I see the gold band on his ring finger. I wonder if his wife fights this, if his wife begs for the clarity of desperation and love that often wins out over irrational commitments and unchallenged resolve. I hurt for his wife more than I hurt for him and feel guilty. I think of a saying I heard somewhere..."Life is for the living" which resolves my guilt for displaced empathy. Would she do the same thing? Would her own fear of death and desire to live, to survive, surpass the promises to a God she has made with her husband? None of this matters because the visitors stream in and out constantly.

They hover around us as we listen to the heart, to the lungs and monitor organ function. There is no clarity, no time for emotion, no time for the looming loneliness and sadness facing his family to ever enter this room, this decision. The church members constant presence avoids this with baked goods and hugs for the wife and for the nurses. Talks of nutritional supplements and the power of prayer with the patient. Holding hands, a constant vigil against the reality of death. A constant guard against the right to die with dignity in old age, to make decisions based on love and partnership with family. There is no room for what-ifs, no time to consider transfusions. The crowded room fills with a constant resistance against the curiosity that creeps up as the reality of death sets in. Dying alone in a crowded room - guarded against the alternative, protected from the demon, the Satan that is a transfusion.

Praise God that his wife does not have to have her 40 year old husband back for another 40 years! Praise God that this beautiful man sits gasping for air on a ventilator! Praise God that this wife will cry alone at night! Praise God that this man will never fully comprehend he had a choice! Praise God for baked goods and hushed discussions, and church membership directories to keep the room in the corner full at all times! Praise God for this, for he is Holy. Praise God that his kid gets to experience death so young!

Emphasizing the need for a transfusion, my attending steps out of the room and I follow behind as a new group of handbag women and mustache men move into our spot. Holding his hand they comfort him while one makes small talk with the nurse who has arrived to check vitals.

As we move down the hall, the attending says to look this disease up and I write down the acronym in my pocket-sized notebook. Hurrying along, I glance into the room katty-corner across the hall. The man in restraints is propped up in bed. He glances over at me and then returns his gaze to the stream of visitors with cellphones clipped neatly to their pleated pants. The armed guard sits in his chair flipping through an issue of Maxim.